1 Granary | Substack

Want more in-depth fashion analysis, expert advice, exclusive interviews and resources?

Alexandre de Betak changed the fashion show forever

In a wide-ranging conversation, the founder of Bureau Betak shares his perspective on the industry right now.

Jan 30 • 1 Granary

What the law actually says for designers plagiarised by brands

A guide to IP, portfolios, and why legal protection in fashion rarely works the way designers expect.

Jan 27 • 1 Granary

Do luxury brands lift ideas from interview portfolios?

Why claims of idea theft are so hard to prove, and why they keep circulating anyway.

Jan 23 • 1 Granary

What a fashion student spends in a week

We asked students in Florence, Copenhagen and Geneva to list every transaction they made for seven days.

Jan 20 • 1 Granary

Lucien Pagès on what it really takes to build a fashion brand now

From shows and celebrity dressing to timing, budgets, and creative force – a candid conversation about survival and scale.

Jan 16 • 1 Granary

Exhibitions to feed our minds and nourish our souls in 2026

Get out the house and see real things.

Jan 13 • 1 Granary

Fashion school open days and application deadlines you shouldn’t miss in 2026

From London to Tokyo – a practical overview of key open days and academic deadlines for fashion students planning their next step.

Jan 10 • 1 Granary

What to do when you lose your freelance gig

You might be entitled to more than you think.

Jan 9 • 1 Granary

44 fa$hion prizes you should apply for this year

Money, yes, but also mentorship, networking and presentation opportunities.

Jan 6 • 1 Granary

The unlikely Wikipedia editor archiving McQueen

How a Canadian call-centre worker with no prior interest in fashion began meticulously mapping out the designer's history.

Jan 2 • 1 Granary

How to utilise AI to improve your practice, from an expert

AI won't replace your creativity, but it could change your workflow.

Dec 30, 2025 • 1 Granary

How to edit a collection like a filmmaker

What cinema teaches fashion designers about decision-making.

Dec 26, 2025 • 1 Granary

Why does everything look the same?

Capitalism works best when everyone wants the same things, but resistance to homogenisation has a long political history.

Dec 23, 2025 • 1 Granary

advice for emerging brands

The Brand Whisperer: Bob Sheard and the future designers need to build

After decades spent reshaping the world’s biggest brands – from Levi’s to Rapha – Bob Sheard believes it’s time to open-source what he knows.

Sep 28, 2025 • 1 Granary

10 brutal truths about running a fashion brand in London

Inside the closed-door roundtable where a handful of London’s independent designers spoke candidly about being stuck in the middle.

Sep 16, 2025 • 1 Granary

What leaving the fashion capital reveals about building a slower, steadier career

The benefits and trade-offs of stepping outside the London circuit

Sep 12, 2025 • 1 Granary

Buyers’ advice for emerging designers this season

🚨 Plus our first news digest 🚨

Sep 3, 2025 • 1 Granary

1 Granary Summer School: How to stay sane *and* stay in business

Marketing, margins, and mental health – the co-founders of Palmer//Harding have spent 15 years trying to find the balance.

Aug 26, 2025 • 1 Granary

You don't need to live in a fashion capital to run a successful brand

Evan Kinori started his label ten years ago, designing and producing in San Francisco, far away from the bright lights of New York, Paris and London.

Aug 22, 2025 • 1 Granary

Knowing your customer: how indie designers actually figure it out

From trial-and-error to informal feedback, the tactics that make the difference.

Aug 18, 2025 • 1 Granary

Big or small house – where should I start my career in fashion?

Choice might seem like a luxury when hitting the fashion job market, but knowing what you want will never hurt.

Aug 15, 2025 • 1 Granary

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